Hiring Equipment For Heavy Machinery Moving

There is a handful of tool hire shops in Yorkshire that supplies equipment for the job of heavy machinery moving. 

If you have the expertise and knowledge then your own staff could undertake this necessary work with the use of moving equipment such as roller skates, pallet trucks, web slings and chain blocks, and possibly specialist equipment such as the skoots system. 

If you need to lift an item of equipment before moving it then a manual or electric hoist may come in handy or possibly other items such as hydraulic jacks and rams. 

One of the most popular items of equipment that is regularly used for machinery moving is the basic set of skates. 

Machinery moving skates come in various configurations with differing weight capacities of what they can move. You can hire skates which are fixed or ones that are steerable. The steerable one usually have a fixed or removable handle to allow you to adjust and steer them as the item of machinery is being moved. 

Lifting Gear

It is not uncommon for you to have to lift an item of machinery before you can move it. If this is necessary then there are several pieces of equipment that can be hired to make the job easier as well as safer. 

Basic equipment could be by way of a lifting gantry (an A frame support) coupled with a web sling or chain block. It could also be by way of an item of powered equipment such as a fork lift truck or mobile crane. 

The exact equipment needed should be determined by the person or company that is handling the machinery moving project for you.

They will carry out an initial assessment to decide on what is the right piece of equipment to carry the job out in a cost effective way, as well as taking health and safety into account. 

Please note: if you are intending to carry out a machinery removal or moving project yourself in Yorkshire and you do not have the expertise and knowledge that is needed to complete this area of engineering work, we recommend you appoint a local machinery moving company that can handle this for you.  

Sheen X300 Flame Gun - Organic Weeder

Sheen X300 Flame Gun

Weed control with the SHEEN X300 ORGANIC PARAFFIN WEED FLAME GUN....

For the safe and organic control of weeds look no further than the Sheen X300. 

Running on economical and affordable paraffin fuel this large sized "weed-wand" makes light work of overgrown and unwanted plants in the garden, on the allotment, or any other area where weeds are present.

We believe this particular weed flame gun is the best you can buy in the current range that is freely available in the UK, manufactured here in England in the UK the Sheen weed flame gun is not only very effective but robust as well.

This "top selling" gardening tool works by searing organic weed material with a high temperature heat blast at around 2000 degrees Fahrenheit, when this is aimed at the base of any weeds it stops the plants sap rising.

All the user has to do is then leave the weeds to dry out for a few days before giving them a second "heat blast". This second application of heat then incinerates all top growth of the weed(s)  reducing them to a rich potash residue.

Sheen X-300 Features

• One gallon capacity fuel tank (paraffin)
• Integral pressure pump and gauge
• Precision control valve and burner unit
• Supplied with a nozzle "pricker" to maintain clean burning
• Weight (dry) without fuel: 5kg
• Overall length is 950mm (without burner hood)
• Other accessories available to buy (hood and trolley)
• The packaging box size is approximately 690mm x 350mm x 240mm
• Runs on paraffin
• Made in England
• A non-toxic way to kill weeds and pests in your garden

Typical applications:

As well as slugs, weeds are one of the biggest problems faced by gardeners and landscapers. The organic control of weeds means control and eradication without resorting to common chemical weed killers. Organic methods include manual removal, smothering, using barrier methods, and by use of the handy tool here - weed burning by use of a Sheen Flamegun.

Deep routed and persistent weeds can be very difficult to remove if you are counting on manually weeding them, you can save hours of time as well as hard work by way of using a flame gun instead. 

Weeds can be found in a wide range of areas in the garden as well as the allotment, in addition they can be found in veg patches, on driveways and paths, along the walls of the house or outbuildings, between block paving bricks, on boundary walls and fences, next to garages and conservatories, and many more places.   

A really common place is in between paving slabs and patio stones, here they can really look unsightly if left to expand and develop. 

Paraffin Weed Gun :- The Sheen range of weed burners (including the X300 and X500) operate off paraffin. Also known as Kerosene this type of fuel is easy to use and can be purchased from most diy and hardware type shops that are in the UK. 

As far as running times go this weed-killer gun can run for approximately 45 minutes when on it's full setting making it perfect for use not only in domestic gardens but on allotments and commercial property sites too. 

Sheen X300 Weed Burner Instructions

Where can i find a copy of the instructions / operator guide for this paraffin weed wand / burner? 

Our website features a link to the UK manufacturers website where you can download a free copy of the Sheen X300 instructions. It can be viewed here.  

Where To Buy From In The UK

This kerosene / paraffin weed burner can be purchased in the UK from several suppliers. 

There are a few stockists that keep this unit on the shelf for collection from their shops but most people choose to order and buy it online. 

You can purchase this model on the internet from suppliers featured here. 

How To Sharpen A Chainsaw Loop Blade

What is the best way to sharpen a chainsaw?

In a lot of tool hire shops this is a question that is asked time after time, and especially during the peak chainsaw user time of Autumn (or the fall for our US readers) in the UK.

All chain saws utilise a "loop" type cutting blade that rotates around the saws drive sprocket and chain bar. When pressure is applied to timber this blade cuts through the wood with repeat cuts from each tooth on the saws blade. With natural wear and tear the loop blade will become blunt resulting in reduced cutting performance, to the extent that the saw will not cut at all if it is left in an unsharpened condition.

Oil lubrication goes a long way to preserving the useful life of a chainsaws blade, but it will not stop the blade becoming blunt during normal usage.

If you have ever used a chain saw and struck a nail or hard object with the bar you will also know that this will blunt a saws blade - and in a rapid time. The same goes if the end of the chain bar makes contact with soil, or the ground around a trees base or stump.

When the blade on a chainsaw becomes blunt you have two options, one is to replace the blade for a new one, the second option is to sharpen the blade.

Before you do either of these it is recommended that you check the whole loop of the blade to determine the overall condition with regards to wear, tooth damage, and also to see if the loop blade has stretched. If the latter has occurred then the only option is to replace with new, but otherwise you may be able to salvage the chain depending on the other factors.

Damaged teeth on a chainsaws blade can usually be fettled back into a serviceable order by way of using a metal file of the correct shape, size, and profile. Small nicks can be trued up as well as light scoring, but if you have any bent or twisted tooth's then again - a new replacement blade will need to be purchased and fitted.

After you have carried out a good inspection for wear, damage, and the overall condition of the blade, you can make the choice as to whether it is ok to have the blade sharpened or instead change it.

How to sharpen a chainsaw blade: 

A garden machinery repair shop will usually be able to offer you a sharpening service where you can leave your blade for sharpening - with a cost to pay at the going rate. Depending on the length and condition of the blade this usually costs in the region of 40 to 50% of the new cost of a replacement loop blade.

Two other options are open to you: 1) you could invest in a manual chainsaw sharpening kit that comprises of a suitable file(s) and profile gauge or 2) invest in the purchase of an electric driven dedicated sharpening machine.

For most chain saw owners the first option is normally their preferred method, being the most affordable option especially when compared to the higher price of a dedicated sharpening machine.

View details on chainsaw sharpening kits

How to sharpen a chainsaw blade:

To file and sharpen-up a chain saw's loop blade there is three (3) steps that need to be done, these are the filing of the top plate, filing of the side plate, and filing / profiling of the blades cutting angle and working "corner".

The top plate of each tooth requires filing to the correct angle as marked on the profile guide that is supplied in your sharpening kit. Using consistent and firm strokes your file should be drawn across the plate until the profile is correct. The same goes for the side plate, file the tooth's side plate until it matches the profile gauges indicator line. This is usually scribed on the profile gauge that is supplied in your chainsaw sharpening kit.

When it comes to the third stage you need to focus your time on the top area of each cutting tooth that is on the loop blade. This is the area that does most of the actual cutting so it is vital that this point is made sharp and filled to the correct shape.

The file gauge (which will have a slot cut into it's top) is placed over the first tooth which is to be sharpened, next the round file is placed next to the tooth's cutting edge, keeping the file level with the alignment mark on the profile gauge draw the file across the cutting edge using a firm pressure, you should notice resistance as metal is removed - so sharpening it. You then release the pressure on the return stroke. This action is then repeated until a clean "fresh metal" area can be seen. This clean area is the new sharp edge which you will have made to the chain saws blade.

Next, you should repeat this process on each and every one of the chain loop's teeth, by doing so will restore the saws chain to a good serviceable condition.

Hints and tips on sharpening a chainsaw blade:

• Try and sharpen the blade using a flat dry and clean surface
• Wear protective safety gloves and safety glasses
• Use a good quality sharpening kit (ie: Alm, Bosch, Black & Decker, Oregon, Stihl)
• Use a sharpening kit whose profile gauge is correct for your particular saw blade
• Assess the blade first for damage, excess wear, and stretching
• Clean the sharpened chain before fitting
• On refitting back your saw make sure its fitted correctly, and re-tensioned